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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. But, situated near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.